It seems the greatest challenge at the onset of my students violin studies isnt producing a clear tone or learning Twinkle Twinkle. For most players, the hassle of finding a good instrument is most difficult. Were not born with an instrument-seeking gene. Most people dont even know what size to look for.

My first 3/4-size violin was a plain but overpriced student outfit. Sadly, my mother and I didnt know any better and the music store made suckers out of us. As a teacher and music shop owner I frequently encounter players who, like myself, were poorly advised on the purchase of an instrument. Thus I'm inspired to shed some light on the delicate issue of buying a violin.

The best place to start on the purchase of any instrument is through your teacher or a specialist in your instruments field. Even if you plan to teach yourself, its still wise to consult a professional on what to look for and avoid in an instrument. Building a trusting relationship with such a person is invaluable as you progress in your playing and invest in higher-level instruments. Like me, most luthiers, or violin specialists, love to talk shop and are happy to educate those who want to learn.

Your teacher or specialist can provide suggestions and tips before you start your search. For instance, prospective violinists should know that bowed string instruments are scaled in various sizes for children ages 2 and up.

A six-year-old could range from playing a 1/8 to a 1/2 size, depending on his/her development. People over the age of twelve typically play a 4/4, or full, size, though I do have a couple if 10-year-olds managing just fine on full sized violins. Because people come in all shapes and sizes, a teacher is the best judge of what instrument you need and can save you buying the wrong size.

Take your instrument search a step further and ask your teacher or specialist to assess a prospective instrument you have located. You may discover, with your teachers help, that the Stradivarius copy at the flea market is not worth an inflated Strad price tag. You may not be so interested in that great deal when your teacher tells you the needed repairs will cost more than the instrument is worth.

If you must replace the strings, bridge and bow hair or bow, about a $160 investment, you are not any further ahead on a $200 outfit. An outfit is when you get the violin, bow and case together.

Thats another thing: you need to know the lingo. Words like purfling, ribs, and, believe it or not, frog, will spring up in your violin hunt. A few hours researching on the Internet will certainly inform a new buyer. Start by learning the various parts and components of an instrument, and then educate yourself on what is most desirable in an instrument.

For instance, an ebony fingerboard is a better choice over rosewood and a horsehair bow beats out any synthetic hair. Some carbon fibre (fiber) bows play better than wood bows and they are far more resistant to warping and other damage.

Having a quality instrument is tremendously important and often overlooked by beginners. I see players develop more rapidly and enjoy playing far more when they play a superior instrument.

Unfortunately, as soon as you talk quality, the salesman talks price. There are ways to get what you want in an instrument without putting a second mortgage on your house. Maybe that $100 unstrung violin and hairless bow looks shabby, but an expert may see underlying potential and value beneath the dust. If you are concerned you may not take to the instrument, consider renting before making a huge investment. Borrow a violin from a relative until you have saved up for your own.

With low priced student outfits you may save by buying a used instrument instead of the latest new model. The used violin may have a few dings and isnt shiny new, but someone else paid the depreciation and broke it in. However, be warned that a used student instrument may need work, new strings and a new bow, which can be like buying new cost-wise.

The new versus used issue varies depending on the instrument and price tag. I see benefits and drawbacks in both new and used and always carefully consider the priority, cost or quality, when selecting an instrument for a student.

Most important to buying used or damaged instruments is that you have a repair person you both trust and who does exceptional work for the right price. Too many people claim to be good luthiers but they can wreck a beautiful violin unintentionally.

Now for some words of caution in your purchase: Realize that many shops pay teachers a commission, typically ten to twenty per cent of the selling price, for sending their students in to buy an instrument. This practice is viewed as highly unethical by myself as well as most other teachers and shops, but it continues to occur.

Make sure you're not buying the most expensive violin in the shop just so you can line your teacher's pockets. Feel free to ask if the teacher earns commissions and never let any shop bully you into a purchase. Walk away from a deal if it feels fishy.

As for shop owners, it's best to buy from someone who actually plays the instrument and understands the subtleties in tone and feel. Many salesmen will insist a violin sounds great, but they aren't even a skilled player, so how would they know? If you are suspicious of the violin's origin ask about where they got it from. You'd hate to buy a stolen fiddle or a junky one relabled as a rare antique!

Heavy topics aside, enjoy the anticipation and thrill of this exciting first step towards making music. Consider this the first of many wonderful steps you will make in your life as a musician. Good Luck!